Thursday, September 24, 2009

Lunch with the De Conciliis's

After our trip to see the vineyards Bruno insists we stay for lunch with his family. We arrive back to the main building and enter into the dining room which is essentially one large room with a small kitchen in one corner. At the stove is Paola, Bruno's sister who is also the CFO or as Bruno whispers makes sure he doesn't waste too much money on his wine experiments. She greets us as she prepares pasta in their makeshift kitchen. The stove, sink and cabinets are all open to the rest of the large room. A long wooden table sits on the opposite end of the cavernous room and we all help get the plates and glasses onto the table. Lunch will be a simple family affair but experience tells me that it will all be delicious. Paola is joined by her husband Giovanni, who is the estate caretaker. Bruno told us earlier that Giovanni is meticulous in his care of the vineyards and though a serious job his demeanor is total free spirit Campanian the entire time.
My family and I are used to family celebrations and entertaining ourselves so we all jump in to help carry the food out for Paola. This also gives me a quick peek into today's lunch. One large platter is filled with bocconcini, the local specialty of individual size portions of bufala mozzarella. Other platters are filled with different local salumi like, proscuitto, cappocola, and suppresatta. There are olives, fruit, and fresh bread also in bowls and baskets and for someone who a short time ago was eating airline food this seems like nirvana. Of course there is wine on the table to and this is what I am anxious to try most. Bruno starts off with his Selim, the white sparkler named after Miles Davis [Miles spelled backwords]. Bruno explains that this is a white wine from aglianico grapes which I know means that these red skinned grapes have no contact with the juice which makes the wine white in color. It is cool and refreshing on this hot August afternoon but also full bodied and creamy with all the citrus notes on the nose and palate that you would expect. It is also a revelation that such a deep dark red still wine can be the same grape as this white sparkler. It goes great with our antipasti and I try to savor my glass slowly but given the heat this is a challenge.
Throughout lunch we discuss many topics from life in New York to future aspirations. Bruno says that his goal in the future would be to have a different type of vineyard . His vineyards would look not like the pristine and orderly row of vines that we are so familiar with but instead would be part of a true farm. His vineyards would have animals, fruits, vegetables and trees all mixed together and the vines would be just a parcel of the entire plot. He makes it sound correct and convincing but not one so practical, I wish him luck. As he speaks we try different vintages of his famous Naima wine. we start with the 2005 and like many aglianicos it has those strong tannins but this has juicy fruit too beisdes the characteristic black tar and spice notes. It is exceptional but when Bruno uncorks the 2004 I see why Bruno takes such pleasure in his work. This wine is smooth with just a touch of that dry finish and speaking of finishes this one lasts on and on. Naima 2004 is a delicious wine that screams for food, maybe not my first choice on this hot August afternoon, but having it here in this room with these people and this food makes all the sense in the world.
Paola interrupts things as she brings out the pasta that smelled so wonderful. I see that it will be rigatoni with a salsa of sauteed fresh local eggplant, tomatoes, garlic [but oh so subtle] and the most aromatic basil tossed in. I have had this dish before and I am surprised that cheese is not served alongside it but when I taste the freshness of the ingredients I realize that it is perfect as is and needs no further adornment. We pass the bowl around and it is wonderful and when they ask if I'd like seconds I behave as the good guest should and reply yes. After the pasta, as always, salad is served last and this one comprises delicious seasonal tomatoes, the best I've had in a couple of years mixed with onions and celery. It is refreshing and cool. Once again, I clean my plate. For dessert fresh fruit is served. The figs look like they spent some time with A Rod and Bonds visiting BALCO Labs, but are fragrant and so sweet that you assume it had to be dusted with sugar. Lunch is finito!
Our hosts are looking tired and Donald is giving me the evil eye so I know it's time to move on to Sacco. My first day in Italy has been fun and educational though jet lag and lack of sleep is catching up, I am sad to leave Bruno and his family as they have made me feel so welcome. The wines are also started to talk to me by this time and I can hear the word siesta over and over. We say grazie and arriverderci to all and we promise to meet again in NY as well as an open invitation in the future to return here.


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